Obon break

Last week we had the annual "Obon" holiday, a few days when the country shuts down and every Japanese person returns to their home town to pay respects to their dead. People go to the family graves, remove weeds, scrub stones, leave fresh flowers, and (in Hiroshima only) leave a wooden stick with their name next to the grave as proof that they actually did come. (My theory is that, the Hiroshima area being the most recalcitrant within Japan, Obon is not about honoring the dead but about proving to other relatives that you did what is expected of you. The sticks are removed after the Obon holiday is over, and those whose sticks are not found by the grave are likely shunned and shamed by family members - Hiroshima natives only know what the punishment might be...)

Anyway, since we have no graves to go visit in Japan, we split our holiday between Kyoto and Tokyo. It was melting hot every day (40+ Celsius, with no breeze and often no shade), but we managed to have a good time and rest quite a bit.

Highlights:
- the garden of the Silver Pavilion in Kyoto with its "VIP moss", and the charming Philosopher's Path.
- the restaurant inside Kyoto's Stone Garden complex, with a gorgeous view of a traditional garden.
- the Thai food that we got to eat in Kyoto (taking advantage of a slightly more cosmopolitan environment, we had ethnic food every night)
- seeing Candy Culver at the Blue Note in Tokyo - and sharing the experience with our friends Kate & Konishi
- an exhibition on world scripts at Tadao Ando's 21_21 exhibition hall in Tokyo's Midtown
- hanging out in Daikanyama - our favorite Tokyo spot (although we've noticed the decline in hipness since we last visited 2 years ago)

Disappointments:
- the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto... WAAAAY overrated - especially because it's been turned into a tourist trap (picture a long line to pay 2 dollars for ringing the traditional bell that's found at the entrance of every temple, and ice cream vending machines sprinkled on the grounds)
- Kyoto's Stone Garden itself... much smaller and uninteresting than we had expected.
- Tokyo's much-hyped Naka-Meguro... First time our Wallpaper guide has greatly disappointed us.

Photos here (Kyoto) and here (Tokyo).

Back to work this week, we had a rough time mentally landing. To cap the ugly week back, a couple of good friends are leaving Japan today, further thinning of our already-shrunken community.... Argh! This is one of those time when I'm counting days until our Japan times are over.